Dickies 874: Fit, Fabric, History and How to Wear It

The Dickies 874 is a straight-cut work pant in hard-wearing twill, first made for tradespeople and now worn by skaters, musicians and anyone who likes a clean, structured trouser that does not mind being used. If you are deciding whether it suits you, the sections below cover its origins, fabric, fit, care and how people wear it today.

Where the 874 comes from

Dickies dates its founding to 1922, and as our Dickies brand page shows, it began by outfitting workers. The 874 came much later. Dickies says it first introduced the 874 in 1967, and its European heritage article puts the release in April that year. The same article explains the unglamorous name: 874 was simply the next number after the 871, 872 and 873 styles that came before it.

It was designed as a practical, durable trouser for a working day, and Dickies still describes it in much the same terms: a high, structured waistband and rigid, non-stretch fabric. That consistency is part of its appeal.

Fabric and construction

The 874 is a twill, a diagonal-weave cloth known for its strength, made from a blend of polyester and cotton. Dickies' US store lists the Original 874 as an 8.5 oz non-stretch twill of 65% polyester and 35% cotton. Its European store lists the current version as 65% recycled polyester and 35% cotton. You may also find the ratio given the other way round, as 65% cotton, including in Dickies' own European heritage article, but both product listings put polyester first. Fabrics can change by market and season, so the care label on your pair is the final word.

Dickies describes the cloth as wrinkle-resistant with a stain-release finish (the heritage article calls it X-it), and says it softens with wear. On its US store, the Original 874 is the brand's highest-rise work pant: it sits at the waist, is relaxed through the seat and thigh, and has a straight leg with a slight taper at the hem.

Each leg has a centre crease, which Dickies' European store describes as an "authentic centre crease". If it fades with washing and you like a sharp line, you can press it back in with an iron on a medium setting.

Fit and sizing

Sizing is where people most often go wrong with the 874.

How the 874 runs

Dickies gives two pieces of advice. Its European product page suggests your usual size if you want the 874 to sit high on the waist, and two sizes up if you want it to sit lower on the hips. Its heritage article is blunter: size up by one size, as they run small. The cloth is rigid at first and softens with washing and wear, so a pair that feels firm in the shop will ease a little.

Choosing the look you want

For a clean, close fit that sits at the natural waist, start with your usual size or one size up, depending on how firm you like a trouser to sit. For the looser, stacked look that skaters made popular, go up two sizes. Remember that this changes the rise as well as the width: a larger waist sits lower on the hip.

Length and hemming

Dickies' US store sells the 874 in waist sizes from 28 to 58 inches and inseams from 28 to 36 inches, though not every combination comes in every colour, so check the inseam as carefully as the waist. The rest is general tailoring advice rather than anything specific to Dickies. If you buy a long length for a baggy fit, the extra cloth will break over the shoe. If you prefer a cleaner line, a local tailor can shorten the hem; and if you plan to roll the leg, keep the length, because a rolled cuff looks quite different from a finished hem.

How the 874 became a skate and subculture staple

The pant spent its first decades on job sites. According to Dickies, Latin American communities in Southern California were among the first to wear it outside work, in the 1980s, and skateboarders picked it up in the late 1980s and 1990s because it was tough enough to survive asphalt and suited the baggy style of the moment.

From there it spread through music. Dickies names Tupac, Snoop Dogg and Cypress Hill among the rappers who wore it in the 1990s, and skate-influenced punk bands such as Blink-182 and Sum 41 helped spread the look further. The brand also became a fixture in alternative metal, and 1990s music television took all of these scenes to a wider youth audience, as described on our brand page.

In each of these scenes, people took up the 874 for practical reasons and the style came afterwards. For a contrasting origin, read the story of Palm Angels, which started as a photography book and became luxury streetwear.

Caring for the 874

Dickies' care guidance is simple.

• Wash in cool water, around 30°C and no higher than 40°C. Hot water can cause shrinkage.
• Use a mild detergent and avoid bleach and harsh chemicals.
• Air-dry, or tumble dry on a low heat, and keep the pants out of strong sunlight when drying, which can fade the colour.
• To iron, turn them inside out, use a medium setting with steam, and start with the waistband and pockets.
• Hang them after washing rather than folding them; if you have ironed them, hanging keeps the creases crisp.

Some stiffness at first is normal, and repeated washing softens the cloth. To speed that up, Dickies suggests fabric softener, dryer balls or working the fabric by hand.

How to wear the 874 today

Because the 874 is an unfussy trouser, it adapts easily to different registers.

Workwear

The most direct approach is the original one: a work shirt, a plain tee or a chore jacket, and sturdy boots, kept in tonal colours.

Skate and street

Size up, leave the leg long, and pair it with a heavy tee, a hoodie and flat-soled trainers. This is the look that made the 874's reputation, and it still holds up.

Smart-casual

A pressed crease and a straight leg read as slightly formal. In black, navy or charcoal, the 874 works with a knit polo, an overshirt or a plain oxford shirt, and leather shoes. It is a useful way to dress down a smart outfit without reaching for denim.

Dickies in India

Dickies is arriving in India soon through Zyvora Brands, the Gurugram-based company that curates and distributes international fashion brands. We have not yet announced launch dates, pricing or stockists. If you would like to know when that changes, or you are a retailer interested in the label, read more on the page for Dickies in India and get in touch.

For more on how overseas labels reach Indian shoppers, see our guides to how international fashion brands enter India and international clothing brands in India. You can see everything we currently work with on the brands page, and learn more about us on the about page.